A Walk through Jinsha Township in Four Words
- Overview of Jinsha Township

Back in August, I had the pleasure of spending a little time in Jinsha Township. Although my time there was short, the area nevertheless made a huge impression on me with its natural beauty and breathtaking mountain scenes. I vowed that I would come back to this wonderful place to explore in greater detail and take in the natural wonders of this place. January was my opportunity to finally make good on that promise, and I lined up an eventful trip full of stops at places that I believed would provide a rich and diverse experience of the ecology of Jinsha Township. I was not disappointed. Every stop from the Forestry Affairs Amusement Zone, to the Doumen Old Tree Zone, and from my time in the Maple Tree Woods, to my trek up Taiwu Mountain thrilled me with a completely different experience. From flowers to trees, and from leaves to rocks, my senses were consistently delighted with every step I took.   

Four Words

Four words best describe this wonderful place, and they are: Peaceful, beautiful, family, and workout. Although all of these words can rightly be applied to all of these sites to one degree or another, I have chosen to use one spot in Jinsha Township as a representative for each descriptor based on how I feel the place best fits in relation to the descriptive words above.

Part I: Peaceful: Pastoral Scenes of Doumen:

Jinsha Township is a very peaceful place, marked by a beautiful and all-encompassing tranquility. The calm of Jinsha Township is pregnant with life and there is a great sense of freedom that comes from viewing the natural scenery here. The sense of placidity I felt in Jinsha Township is the kind one feels when he or she is in nature, completely removed, or at least somewhat cut off, from the cares of the world and daily life.

Strikingly, in every place I visited, there existed at least some degree of separation from automobiles, and in some places, I would go several minutes without seeing another person. This left me plenty of time to ponder the wonderful scenes unfolding before me. Walking in Jinsha Township allows a person to truly live peace and to feel it in his or her very being. It provides a welcome respite from whatever pressures and troubles a person may be facing, and allows all travelers to focus on the myriad pleasures and manifold manifestations of beauty in the world

If I had to pick one place that best embodies this mix of beauty and calm, it would have to be while I was viewing the old trees and the wonderful pastoral scenes at Doumen, which can be reached via bus 5 from Shamei, and offers service to Jincheng. The trees and the people of this village live in perfect harmony, with many in this area depending on agriculture for a living. I gazed with awe and reverence at the trees that had experienced so much, and marveled at the peaceful coexistence between nature and man. Doumen, with its old trees and verdant fields in the shadow of Taiwu Mountain, proves that such symbiosis is still possible in this modern world.  

Furthermore, the color of the fields absolutely shocked me. I am from Indiana, where the winters are often cold and very hard. Such a lovely green field as that which can be seen in January in Doumen with just a 10-15 minute taxi ride from the city of Shanwai is positively unheard of where I live and a real treat for the eyes.

Part II: Beautiful: Flower Viewing at the Forestry Affairs Amusement Zone

Beauty abounds in Jinsha Township, and every site I visited was beautiful in its own way and possessed a unique character. With so many scenes worthy of the designation, it is difficult to settle on one place to represent this word. Being forced to pick only one, however, I would say that the Forestry Affairs Amusement Zone is most beautiful.

A testing ground for new plant species and home to at least 100 species of plants, this place has everything a nature lover could ask for: majestic trees lining the entrance, clean, clear ponds for viewing and pondering, plenty of birds to keep visitors company as they explore, flowers and other plant life as far as the eye can see, numerous places to sit and relax, free bicycle rental, and a museum to learn more about the ecology of Kinmen.  No matter your interest, you are sure to find something here to excite and delight you.

 Most importantly for visitors, this attraction is a mere five minutes by taxi from Shanwai, just across the border of Jinsha Township and Jinhu Township. There is a great deal of English translation support throughout this area, and it is a wonderful place to take the family with its numerous amenities, including a playground, a barbecue area, and great scenery. Although this is a great attraction to visit all year round, bear in mind that the best time for flower viewing is Spring and Summer, particularly between the months of April and June. Forestry Research Institute can be accessed via bus 23 which runs between Shanwai and Tianpu.

Part III: Family: A Walk through the Maple Woods (Fengshanglin)

Jinsha Township is a tremendously family friendly place. There is not a single attraction here that is not fun for the entire family to visit. The Maple Leaf Woods, situated about 1KM from Wuhushan and 2KM from the Shanhou Folk Culture Village, two other attractions in the immediate vicinity, is no exception. It provides the perfect scene for a family picnic. Before touring Shanhou or climbing Wuhushan, pack your favorite foods, bring your spouse and kids, find a place to sit among the many seating areas in the woods, and take in the beautiful red and orange maple leaves as you breathe the crisp fall air of Kinmen.

If you choose to save this attraction for after you have seen one of the other attractions in the area, remember that the Maple Leaf Woods is more than just a spot for picnic lunches. It is also a great place to take a relaxing cool-down walk before heading home after climbing Wuhushan, or a nice little bonus trip after walking through the village at Shanhou. Like other attractions in Jinsha Township, there are plenty of steps to climb here. Thankfully, though, there are also many places to just sit and enjoy the trees, the breeze, the weather, or each other’s company. It is best to view this place in the Fall when the leaves are at their peak, but I believe that the Maple Tree Woods are lovely at any time of year. The Maple Woods are accessible via bus 25, which runs between Shanwai and Shanhou Folk Culture Village.  

Part IV: Workout: A Steep Climb up Mount Taiwu (Taiwushan)

With numerous steps to climb and walking paths to travel, virtually every place in Jinsha Township is a good place to get a workout. For those seeking a physically challenging place to walk, Mount Taiwu is perfect. Standing 253 meters tall and straddling Jinsha and Jinhu, the summit of this granitic mountain is the tallest point on Kinmen.

 A view from Mount Taiwu is unlike any other view the island can provide. Looking down from the pass leading to Doumen, I saw the same blissfully calm fields I had marveled at previously, but from a totally different perspective. Because the mountain formed from two great tectonic movements, the Himalayan Movement and the Yanshan Movement, viewing this mountain from any perspective fills one with a deep respect for nature and its power.

Though short, spanning approximately 3.2KM, the climb is extremely steep and not to be approached lightly; however, his warning should not deter anyone from visiting.  I saw people of many different shapes and sizes successfully completing the climb. I encourage all visitors to take their time and really soak in the scenery. Do not be afraid to explore the numerous side paths that lead to breathtaking views from the top of a cliff, or the attractions such as the Haiyin Temple, which is one of Taiwan’s 100 Religious Attractions. Filled with exquisite artifacts, well-crafted statues complete with Buddhist prayers, places for prayer and worship, as well as a place where you can take home some Buddhist books to read, this jewel at the summit is not to be missed.

Periodically throughout your trip, calligraphic inscriptions, some of which purportedly written by Chiang Kai Shek himself encourage climbers in the same manner in which they encouraged the soldiers and citizens of the past. To get to Taiwu Mountain, take the Blue 1 bus.

Recharging at Gaokeng Beef Restaurant

For nourishment following your climb, stop by the Gaokeng beef restaurant which serves beef of all kinds prepared in myriad ways. There is even an English-speaking waitress named Una there to help guests whose Chinese is limited get the best possible dining experience. Don’t forget to venture next door to the restaurant and pick up some of their famous beef jerky. I particularly recommend the Cumin (Ziran) flavor, which tastes like it’s straight out of Xinjiang and offers a delectable burst of Middle-Eastern and Chinese fusion flair. To get to Gaokeng Beef restaurant, take bus 5 between Shamei and Jincheng.

From the calm idyllic trees and fields of Doumen, to the vibrant, blooming flowers of the Forestry Affairs Amusement Zone; and from the tender, serene Maple Woods to the majestic jewel that is Mount Taiwu and its accompanying Haiyin Temple, Jinsha Township offers many things to see and explore. I encourage all who come to Kinmen to pay this wonderful spot a visit during their trip. You will not be disappointed, and will want to come back again and again to this place where the scenery and people are as tender as Gaokeng’s beef.

On Kinmen's Lakes

As an island, Kinmen's connection to water is impossible to ignore. From the oyster farmers and fisherman of Guningtou, to the ports at Liaoluo and Shuitou, many Kinmenese depend on the sea. Furthermore, the large number of visitors attracted by Kinmen's two most famous lakes, Lake Ci and Lake Gugang, indicates that many on Kinmen use water as a means of relaxation, reflection, and renewal. One could even go so far as to say that Kinmen's connection to the water is as important as its connection to military history. This month, I had the opportunity to explore the connection between Kinmen, its history, and its water at two prominent lakes on the island, Lake Ci and Lake Gugang.

Lake Ci

The first area I visited was Lake Ci in the Guningtou area. One of the most historically significant spots on Kinmen, Guningtou hosted a huge battle of the Chinese Civil War in 1949. The resulting Republic of China (ROC) victory preserved the Republic's hold on Kinmen and on Taiwan, setting the chain of events that led to contemporary cross-strait relations in motion. Although an overwhelming victory for the ROC, it still came with a cost. The army suffered over 3000 casualties, including nearly 1300 deaths. Unsurprisingly, the area still bears the scars of that battle, and Lake Ci is no exception.

On Kinmen, one is never far from poignant reminders of the sacrifices of the military to ensure peace in Taiwan, and Lake Ci bears testament to that to that fact.  When driving past Lake Ci coming from Jincheng, a military installation known as the triangle fort greets travelers on the lake's west side. The fort looks out to the sea, which still has many of its defensive installations intact and a row of tanks on the shore. The sea is separated from Lake Ci by a dike constructed by the military in 1969 for defense purposes. 

In fact, the very existence of Lake Ci itself is the result of military history and intervention in the natural ecology of Kinmen. Before the construction of Ci Dike, Lake Ci was an inlet leading out to sea. In those days, boats could sail directly up to Beishan Village in the Guningtou area, and the village enjoyed the status of a trading port. After the construction of the dike and the creation of what we now know as Lake Ci, the area focused more heavily on oyster cultivation and fishing.

Visitors to Lake Ci will feel the immense weight of that history. The sacrifices of the soldiers to keep Taiwan in ROC hands, the blood they shed, the pain they endured, are all on full display as one stares into Lake Ci. On certain days, the wind, for which Kinmen is well known, roars in from Xiamen and whips the sea into a roiling frenzy, much like the time in October 1949 when that same coast brought the winds of war to this peaceful island. However, turning toward the lake, visitors will encounter comparatively placid blue-green water. The wind hardly disturbs the reverent calm of the lake; the undulating ripples resembling the lines of a person well-advanced in age who has experienced a great deal of joy and pain in their life. 

That joy and pain comes from Lake Ci's dual role as a place of solemn sacrifice for the nation as well as for renewal; for as heavy a toll as the battle near the lake exacted, Lake Ci also offers many means of renewal. Militarily, the victory of the ROC forces over the People's Liberation Army (PLA) in Guningtou,   allowed the Republic to renew itself on Taiwan. Ecologically, that renewal is on display when the Great Cormorants, a bird that winters in Kinmen between October and March, return to the lake to rest and renew themselves. Lake Ci hosts the largest colony of Great Cormorants on the island, with 1000-2000 birds visible at any time. Spiritually, visitors to Lake Ci can renew themselves by pondering the events of that fateful battle, the resulting peace, and its meaning in their lives, as well as by enjoying a relaxing day of walking, birdwatching, and socializing with friends. 

There are many good locations for birdwatching around Lake Ci, but perhaps the best is the Lake Ci Ecological Center (Cihu Jieshuo Zhan). The walk to the Center lasts about 5-10 minutes and numerous trees, flowers, and idyllic water scenes greet visitors along the path. The entire experience is a real treat for the eyes, as the colors are numerous and plentiful and the water is calm. The Lake Ci Ecological Center provides a great deal of seating for birdwatchers and plenty of space for them to look out and view Kinmen's wondrous and diverse ecology. For those unfamiliar with the ecology of Kinmen, the Cihu Jieshuo Zhan courteously furnishes a few bilingual signs in Chinese and English detailing the birds and animals they can expect to see in the area such as the Eurasian Otter, and varieties of the Prinia and Kingfisher.

The Cihu Jieshuo Zhan is open daily from 8:30AM-5PM, with the exception of Chinese New Year's Eve. Like the rest of the Guningtou Area and Lake Ci, it is accessible via bus 9, which runs between Jincheng and Guning. Travelers wishing to go to the Cihu Jieshuo Zhan should get off the bus at the Lake Ci stop and find their way to the Center using signposts, since motorized vehicles cannot drive directly up to the Center. 

Gugang Lake

My travels next took me to a lake most unlike Lake Ci in character. This lake reposes peacefully in the southern part of the island, its placid, blue-green water glistening, almost jewel-like in the sunlight. The lake beckons like a coquettish maiden, awaiting those who desire a picnic with friends or a relaxing stroll far removed from the pressures of life. This smiling maiden in the southwest is called Gugang Lake, and is just outside the eastern gate of Jinmencheng, near the famed Zhaishan Tunnel. It holds the distinction of being Kinmen's only natural lake. Visitors can get to Gugang Lake by taking bus 6 or 6A from Jincheng towards Jinmencheng, and getting off at the stop called “Gugang Lake.”

Gugang Lake is full of pristine, verdant ecology, and visitors walking around the lake's playful, shimmering waters will often find themselves gently kissed by tree branches, or even startled by frightened birds that fly out as humans draw near.  Biodiversity appears to be quite high in this area, as flowers and birds of many colors and types can be seen. As you walk, relish the wholeness and peacefulness of your soul and the souls of those who live and farm by the lake. The agriculture around Gugang Lake appears to be small-scale subsistence farming with an individual household basis.  Allow yourself to be swept away by the quiet natural beauty that surrounds you here. Although not far from the city, Gugang Lake feels a world apart from cities like Jincheng or Shanwai.

Travelers wishing to get a bird's eye view of Gugang Lake have two options to do so: the “Han Ying Yun Gen” inscription on Xiantai Mountain, and Gugang Tower at the site of the lake itself. The journey to the “Han Ying Yun Gen” inscription requires less than .5KM and can be reached by walking to the left out of the “Gugang Lake” bus stop towards the sign guiding visitors to the Zhaishan Tunnel. Take another left at a clearing with some small stone buildings hidden in lush, green forest and walk straight. Cross the street and follow the signs to reach the inscription at the top of the stairs.

Written by Zhu Yihai (Prince Lu), the last heir to the Ming throne who fled to Kinmen in 1652 to continue his resistance against the Qing Dynasty, the “Han Ying Yun Gen” inscription is a third-grade historical site. However, the inscription found at the top of the mountain now is a 1970 reproduction; not the original. The original inscription can be found lying at the foot of the mountain after a fall in the early Republican period.

Though short on content with just four characters, this inscription carries a great deal of meaning. It lays bare the sadness and suffering Prince Lu endured as he continued to resist the Qing to no avail, as well as his longing for the Ming. As a high-context culture, much meaning conveyed in the Chinese language is conveyed by that which is not explicitly stated or directly expressed, but is understood by a kind of “shared experience” that comes with a heavy emphasis on group cohesion.

The second site from which visitors can view Gugang Lake from high up is the Gugang Lake Tower. During his visits to Kinmen, Chiang Kai-Shek frequently enjoyed walking among the peaceful scenery of Gugang Lake. Accordingly, General Wang Duo Nian ordered the 16 meter-high, three story Gugang Tower be built. Construction of the tower required ten months. The tower is decorated smartly in red and green and is adorned with numerous symbolic decorative elements such as Chao Feng, a son of the Dragon King who burnishes precipices because he likes to sit in dangerous places.

The first story (ground floor) provides introductory information about the tower and the surrounding area, while the second and third stories are primarily observational. As visitors ascend, the wind grows stronger and the view becomes more beautiful. The water gently flows below, almost emerald in color, and visitors are brought into near complete parity with the surrounding mountains, which are known more for their beauty than their prodigious height.

A Visit to Shanhou: Exploring History, Culture, Food, and Architecture

The Wang Family and Shanhou

Kinmen is an island that deeply cares not only for its natural environment and its industry, but also for its traditional cultural heritage. In addition to the reforestation efforts begun in the 1950's, the Kinmen government also has worked to preserve examples of traditional architecture, especially in the 1970's and ‘80's. One example of Kinmen's commitment to the preservation of traditional architecture is the Shanhou Folk Culture Village, a group of eighteen buildings buildings created in the Southern Min style in Shanhou, Jinsha Township. Back in the 1970's, the government began renovations on these buildings with the hope of turning them into a showplace of traditional architecture that would attract students, local people, and tourists alike. Originally completed in 1900 after 24 years of work, the buildings were owned by the Wang family, a successful merchant family from Shanhou that did very well in business in Kobe, Japan in the 19th century.

Led by Wang Guozhen and his son Wang Jingxiang, the family history is extremely interesting. While in Kobe, they worked in finance, precious metals, matches, and soybeans among other things. In addition, the family served as the chair of the Overseas Chinese Chamber of Commerce and the Japan branch of the Chinese Revolutionary Party. Accordingly, they were a very powerful family that married into other powerful families. They even had a close relationship with the father of the ROC, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, whose revolution they helped sponsor.

Despite their power and influence in Japan, the Wangs never forgot Shanhou; nor did they forget their obligations to their family members still living there. Therefore, they remitted money for the creation of housing for their relatives. These houses would later become the Folk Culture Village. Although this constituted a great act of fidelity on their part, they are not unique for having done it. At the time, remittance in order to better the lives of one's family members was a common practice, and it remains common today.

History of Shanhou

The original construction of the houses took 24 years. Though that may seem like a long time, it really is not. Similar villages exist throughout Southern China, many of which took even longer to build. For example, the village in Fujian built by the Chen family, which was based in Thailand, took 40 years to construct; while the Guangdong village of the Philippine-based Tsai family took nearly 50 years to complete. In contrast to the long duration of the original project the Wangs undertook in 1876, the renovations at Shanhou were completed within a year and a half between the beginning of 1979 and May of 1980.

Architecture and Layout of Shanhou

The architecture of the Shanhou Folk Culture Village is Southern Min style. Two features that immediately stand out to visitors are the red and white brick of the buildings, and the swallowtail roofs, which get their name from the gentle upward curvature of the edge of the roof. They are a symbol of status or importance often found on temples or the houses of wealthy people.  Brick of both the red and white variety served as a common construction material in this region. It can be found in many places sporting traditional architecture, even on Jincheng's Modal Street (Mofanjie), which creates a beautiful blend of East and West by combining European-style red brick archways with Chinese motifs. 

Every building at Shanhou is built on a hillside facing the sea and is backed by a mountain called Mt. Lion (Shishan). This arrangement is in accordance with sound principles of Feng Shui, which believe that houses facing water are able to capture good qi much more efficiently. They promote success, health, and wealth, while mountains are essential to support people throughout their lives and provide stability to their families. Therefore, the landscape at Shanhou accords very well with the principles of Feng Shui. 

The hamlet is laid out on a grid in three rows of six buildings each. Each building is composed of two parallel halls in a style known as erjin (binary) style. Sixteen of the eighteen buildings are residences, while the other two buildings are a family temple and a school. The school was located in Haichu Hall, in front of the ancestral temple. Tourists can explore the old school building, wherein the ancestral tablets are kept, but the ancestral temple itself was not open to tourist exploration during my visit.

Life in the Late Imperial Era and Common Architectural and Decorative Motifs

However, some of the old residences were open and allowed me to take a glimpse at what life was like for a wealthy Chinese person at the end of the Imperial Period. They used lots of Western things, like cigar boxes, wore top hats, and indulged in expensive hobbies such as movies. Paintings by Lin Ruo Yu, a family member who achieved some renown as a painter, adorn the walls of one of the Cultural Relics Exhibit rooms (wenwuguan).  Her paintings reflect a preference for plant motifs (Pine and Plum, Peony), and life scenes, such as the painting depicting children at play during the Dragon Boat Festival. There is no express indication relating her paintings to life in Kinmen. They reflect common Chinese motifs (pine, plum, peony, etc.). Furthermore, the painting of the children at the Dragon Boat Festival is not identified as a scene in Kinmen. The possibility exists that her inspiration could have been something she saw in Kinmen. 

Regarding the motifs that one can find in the houses and buildings of Shanhou, it seems quite fitting that Lin Ruo Yu painted a picture of a peony. The flower represents a common motif found throughout the village. Peonies are a symbol of prosperity; thus it makes perfect sense that a wealthy family would display them prominently. Other common motifs include magpies, a symbol of happiness, which make their appearance in the family area, and dragons, a symbol of good fortune. In some areas of the village, particularly around Haichu Hall, dragons can be seen with their mouths open. This means that they are trying to capture evil spirits, but they can also help filter rainwater.

Food and Amenities

Shanhou Folk Culture Village, which became part of Kinmen's National Park in 1995, has plenty of amenities to offer tourists. Upon entering the village, visitors are greeted by shops selling food and drink. The most famous of these is called Wang A'Po Snack Shop. Options on the menu include many famous Kinmen dishes such as oyster omelet, oyster thin noodle soup, fried instant noodles, Congyoubing (green onions and soy sauce inside a flaky fried crust), Kinmen Kaoliang sausage jianbing (similar to the congyoubing in that it has sauce and green onions, but also includes grilled sausage and eggs), shaved ice, ice cream bars, and more. 

Prices at Wang A'Po are reasonable, hovering between 30 (about $1US) and 70 (about$2.30US) NTD, portions are generous, and the food is of good quality. The congyoubing represents a perfect mix of sweetness and saltiness. It is one of the most flavorful congyoubings available on the island. The soy sauce and sweet pepper powder, work in perfect tandem with the fragrant green onions and golden-brown crust. As for the Kaoliang Sausage Jianbing, it is a truly unique and delicious snack. The sausage is tasty, and the eggs and sauce serve as excellent complements. The oyster omelet also comes well-recommended, with a sweet and spicy sauce and generous amounts of oysters and vegetables in every bite.

The oyster thin noodle soup at Wang A'Po Snack Shop includes tender, tasty noodles, soft, flavorful oysters, and plenty of healthy vegetables. It is the perfect dish to re-energize visitors as they continue their exploration of the wonders of Shanhou Folk Culture Village, and the surrounding area. Within 1-2KM of Shanhou lay myriad tourist attractions, like the Mt. Lion Howitzer Fort, the Maple Woods (Fengxianglin), Wuhu Mountain (Wuhushan), and the Wuhushan Footpath (budao).  

Other amenities at Shanhou include a coffee shop that doubles as a guest house located in the middle of the village (Fountain Coffee Guest House). There, visitors and lodgers can relax and enjoy a cup of coffee or tea while listening to music. Seating options include an open-air patio complete with umbrellas, and a roomy inside space with comfortable chairs. 

In the shadow of Shishan (Lion Mountain) in the northeast of the village, there is another guest house called Visit Kinmen Guest House. It sits on a hill in a tranquil area away from tourists, and offers a great view of the village. The area is replete with the beautiful nature scenes for which Kinmen is well-known. In short, whether your visit to Shanhou is for a few hours or a few days, the Shanhou Folk Culture Village can accommodate you.

Transportation: Getting To And Going From Shanhou

Tourists wishing to visit Shanhou can find many ways to get there from various points on the island. In addition to taxi, Shanhou is also a stop on three different bus routes: one from Shanwai (bus 25), and two from nearby Shamei (buses 31 and 32). There is also a daily tourist bus that will stop at Shanhou for 45 minutes. It is the first stop on Mondays, arriving at10:37AM and departing at 11:22AM; and the fifth stop on Tuesday through Sunday, arriving at 8:43AM, and departing at 9:28AM. The hours of operation of the village are between 8AM and 5PM daily. 

Since there is plenty to see, study, explore, appreciate, and eat, I strongly recommend getting there early in the day to explore this treasure of the past in the detail it deserves. Doing so will also give you greater opportunities to explore the surrounding area, and the myriad attractions that make Jinsha Township so unique, and a must visit on any trip to Kinmen. Whether you are a student interested in architecture, a tourist here to explore, a person with a strong interest in history or military affairs, or just wild about nature, you will find plenty of things to pique your interest and spark your curiosity in and around Shanhou Folk Culture Village.